The Challenge: Brunching with Tourists

On a Sunday not too long ago, I ventured somewhere few native San Franciscans dare: Fisherman's Wharf.

A miracle had occurred. The fog parted just long enough for me to meet my friend KC for some French/German bicyclist dodging a nice walk at Fort Mason. When I jumped out of my cab in workout gear, the driver said, "Have a nice run!" No, no I did not correct him. KC and I had a good laugh about this. Running? Us?

After some sunshine and fresh air, we wandered over to the Buena Vista Cafe, ogling the massive line of tourists willing to pay $6 to ride the cable car (nuts). We partook of the legendary Irish coffees, and ordered up some pretty standard brunch fare. The food itself is not particularly amazing, although stuff anything with Dungeness crab and I'm pretty happy. But the Irish coffees without a doubt deserve their reputation. A thick layer of cream floats pristinely over the murky libations beneath. The glass is warm; the coffee hot, and the rum warms you throat to belly to fingertips.

The whole experience made me think of my dad, who loved to swim in the bay when he lived here during the 80's. The Buena Vista Cafe is just across from the two big swim clubs, the Dolphin club and the South End club. I imagine that after taking a plunge in 55 degree saltwater, an Irish coffee and some unassuming eggs and sourdough toast would seriously hit the spot. I'm not going to do it, but you're welcome to try.

KC remarked that there seems to be a good mix of tourists and locals. The tables are large and seem to often get shared, and just as we were getting our check an older couple sat down next to us. They told us they had met in San Francisco 42 years ago, and remembered when you could only order three different entrees at the Buena Vista, none of them good, and the Irish coffees cost 75 cents. They also expressed amazement that the cable car went all the way through to the wharf, "now." We gently allowed as how our generation doesn't really take the cable car. I think it was a good learning experience, all around.

It made me wonder a bit about all these bars cropping up around the city, serving things out of mason jars, digging up vintage recipes from The Savoy Cocktail Book. Don't get me wrong, I eat that stuff up. But the Buena Vista doesn't have to feign mid-century cool. The Buena Vista was actually here mid century, and at the beginning of the century, and at the end of the century, for that matter. There's something to be said for that.